OUGD504 - Guidebook Research - Encouraging Wildlife into the Garden

Ways of Encouraging Wildlife into the Garden

Homes for Nature 

- wildlife can make a home in all types of garden 

- even small gardens can provide havens for wildlife 

- to be wildlife friendly things don't have to be left 

- there are lots of simple ways to help wildlife 

- providing access to a variety of habitats and providing feeding opportunities all help 

- having a wildlife garden is available to everyone 

Habitats 

- Try to create as many different types of habitat as possible within the available space without it becoming crammed   

- Lawns with uncut long grass hold insects providing food for birds 

- Flowering plants and shrubs in borders provide nectar for bees and butterflies and also seeds, berries and cover for birds and small animals 

- Roosting sites for birds and mammals are found within trees and give shelter from predators and the weather

- Ponds and water features give a home to amphibians and invertebrates and garden birds

- Woodpiles, compost and trimmings allow places for animals to live, feed and hibernate

Places to Breed and Shelter 

- climbers against walls provide shelter, roosting and breeding sites for birds

- trees, bushes and hedgerows provide shelter from predators for small mammals, hedgehogs and birds

- bird and bat boxes and hedgehog homes provide artificial shelters as natural roosting and nesting sites can be hard to find

- Butterflies need plants to lay their eggs e.g. hedge garlic is suitable for orange tip butterflies 

- Dead wood, foliage and trimmings provide hiding places for insects, fungi and moss

- Long grass allows hiding and breeding places so only cut back in late winter or early spring to allow wildlife to move on 

Foraging and Feeding

- can provide food for birds and hedgehogs 

- use a range of plants that flower and seed at different times, providing food across the year

- berry bushes and fruit trees another source

- ivy gives autumn nectar for insects and fruit in the winter for birds

- colourful flowers attract bees, wasps, butterflies and insects 

- by having lots of insects and beetles this provides food for birds, chicks, mammals,hedgehogs and bats

- clean water from a pond or dish is important 

- butterflies and moths need places for their caterpillars to feed on so a variety of plants are needed

Native

- growing native flowers, shrubs and trees is important
- food chains around native plants naturally already occur
- some animals rely on only a few native species 

Install Nesting Boxes

- Different birds like different types of boxes
- should be placed in a sheltered place to protect from the elements
- install before spring so the breeding season is not intterupted

A Mix of Trees and Shrubs

- larger plants and trees support more wildlife
- food from flowers, fruits and seeds
- provide cover and nesting sites from insects to birds
- small trees and shrubs e.g. rowan, crab apple, hawthorn, elder, blackthorn etc have lots of berries and blossom
- fruit trees encourage specialist native wildlife and provide a crop

Plant a Tree

- Native trees attract birds and insects e.g. crab apple, hawthorn, conifers, silver birch yew and alder
- provide nesting place for birds and squirrells
- Willow attracts bats
- trees provide blossom in spring/ early summer and fruit for birds and small mammals
- Holly is evergreen through winter, providing berries through Winter
- naturally Britain was covered in trees after the ice age 10,000 years ago, the trees replaced the ice sheets
- hawthorn has over 150 dependent insect species
- crab apples have pink blossom in spring which is nectar for 90 insect species, mini apples for birds and mammals
- small native trees are more appropriate for smaller gardens
- plant multiple trees near one another to create a woodland habitat

Grow a Hedge

- e.g. blackthorn, cherry plum, hazel, privet
- give further nesting areas for birds and small animals
- shelters the garden aswell
- the most wildlife friendly garden boundaries
- allow wildlife to come and go naturally
- provides a living boundary
- gives shelter and food for insects and birds
- plant hedges between November and March
- remove weeds from site
- for a thick hedge plant in double staggered rows with five plants per metre
- dig a hole the same depth as the root ball, fill with removed soil, firm with foot, water well
- water regularly during the summer to establish the plants
- in the first spring cut back to 45 - 60cm , this will encourage bushy growth making the hedge thicker
- to prevent gaps forming in the hedge replace any dead plants
- evergreen hedges: holly , yew , juniper
- non evergreen hedges: hawthorn, blackthorn, hazel, crab apple,  Guelder Rose, Dog Rose, Field Rose, Crab Apple, Goat Willow, Wild Cherry, Bird Cherry, Spindle
- non native hedgerow: pyracantha, cotoneaster, lavender, Hebe 'Autumn Glory'
- cut one side of hedge back each year in late winter, when everything has stopped growing
- planting mixed hedges, more food for wildlife
- normal closely cut hedges of the same species provide little room for wildlife compared with native ones
- hedges that row berries and flowers are best for wildlife
- during the breeding season, between spring to late summer, birds nest within hedges, trees etc and should not be disturbed during this time meaning any trimming should be done later 

Climbers and Creepers

- foliage provides a place for insects and draws birds
- e.g. Clematis, dog rose, honeysuckle, ivy, Jasmine, Wild Roses, brambles
- ivy and honeysuckle most beneficial
- used to decorate boundary fences
- blackbirds, wrens and other birds nest within
- provide pollen and nectar for the insects
- honeysuckle and wild roses have scented blossom for night moths
- roses and brambles provide autumn fruit
- ivy is evergreen
- fruit provides food for birds and mammals during winter
- attractive way of hiding fences and creating natural boundaries
- ivy provides shelter for butterflies and insects during the winter
- shelters birds from weather
- during spring and summer birds nest in ivy
- ivy flowers and berries give late food for insects and birds
- Holly Blue lays second batch of eggs on ivy in the autumn
- ivy is self clinging
- most climbers need support to grow up e.g. wire, netting, trellis etc

Wildflowers

- Butterflies and bees attracted to wildflowers
- provide pollen and nectar
- insects fertilise the plants , seed and fruit production would drop without them
- Native species with open structured flowers good for bees and Buddlea is loved by butterflies
- Overbred plants that are often large have few flowers, which are not suitable for attracting lots of insects as they hold little pollen
- e.g. foxgloves, bluebells and crocus's
- the most effective plants are those which provide pollen and nectar for a long season e.g. Crocus, Mahonia, Michaelmas Daisy, Sedum Spectabile and ivy
- long grass area of wildflowers provides butterflies with nectar for feeding
- modern agriculture and the use of herbicides, chemicals and land clearance has meant the loss of habitat of wildflower and grassland areas
- bees and hoverflies use grasslands for nectar and pollen
- grasshoppers and crickets are endangered in some parts because of the decline in this habitat
- common blue, meadow brown and grasshoppers in decline

Meadowland

- scatter wildflower seeds
- meadows are mixtures of grasses and wildflowers
- '96% of our diverse , species rich meadows' have been lost since the 1950s
- loved by insects
- low maintenance natural alternative to a lawn
- annual meadows contain annual grasses and wildflowers which survive in rich soils, such as poppies and corn marigolds - these have to be sown each year
- perennial meadows are more permanent with plants such as buttercups and ragged robin - these need poor soil so the wildflowers can compete with grasses  e.g. yellow rattle which is a partial parasite on grasses
- paths can be mowed through meadows to allow for movement through them

Wild Lawn

- leave a patch of wild and long grass which will replicate a meadow
- about 20 - 30 cm
- useful if you haven;t got space for a meadow
- could encourage small mammals such as wood mice, voles and shrews which eat grass and insects e.g.butterfly caterpillars, grasshoppers
- planting ornamental grasses in a border will also create a similar effect if a long lawn patch os not desirable
- lawns sustain many insects which provide food for birds and other small animals
- avoid using chemicals on the lawn
- let the grass grow a little longer (3 - 5 cm) by not cutting too often (two weeks)
- letting the grass remain long during winter the moving in march allows shelter for hibernating insects
- small mammals such as hedgehogs and shrews prefer to move through long grass rather than across open spaces
- wildflowers will be encouraged to grow
- bumblebees nest in grass
- grasshoppers and caterpillers feed on grass
- if the grass is not mowed or walked on allows for more wildlife to be undisturbed
- insects spiders and beetles
- if have limited space could have a strip of long grass along a border, hedge or around a tree
- reduces the maintenance when compared with a conventional lawn
- voles and shrews hunt and hide in grass

Log Pile

- dead wood encourages beetles, insects and grubs which is food for larger animals
- decaying wood creates a specialist wildlife habitat for uncommon insects such as stag and bark beetles and their grubs, also fungi
- used as cover and hibernation sites
- unstained or unpainted wood suitable , with big logs most effective partly buried
- can be put out of sight or made a feature of
- if the logs are put somewhere shady they will rot quicker so is more suitable for moss and fungi
- if in the sun the wood will dry out making it a home for solitary bees who use old beetle holes and wasps who chew wood for their nests
- it can be piled up or stacked nicely
- digging a hole and burying some of the wood under the soil aswell as stacking it ontop invites other creatures
- worms, slugs, snails, centipedes, millipedes and ground beetles use this type of habitat
- insects bore into the wood e.g. larvae of beetles
- pruned twigs and logs can be used
- thread like mycelia of fungi break down wood into pulp
- in summer mewts,frogs,toads,mice,shrews and hedgehogs
- in winter slowworms, mice and hedgehogs
- provides overwintering sites
- placing old branches and leaves in a corner of the garden allows a place for hedgehogs to sleep / hibernate
- by planting shade loving plants around the pile, such as ferns, this will encourage wildlife to use the habitat
- log piles often look unused however insects use them to hide from predators and the sun as many of the insects will only come out at night 
- butterflies and moths lay their eggs on grass stems so the larvae can feed off them

Bird Table

- useful feeding area for birds away from predators
- should not be accessible to cats
- roofed bird tables keep food dry and stop it going off
- put a range of food out on it such as seeds, fruit, fat or rind meat
- this must be cleaned regularly using a hose and scrubbing brush
- using a mild unfragranced disinfectant or pet cleaner can help to properly kill off any bacteria
- beneficial way or feeding birds as mice and rats can't get to the food

Source of Water

- provides a water source for drinking and washing
- needs to be clean and unfrozen water
- provide all year round
- during winter pour boiling water over the bird bath to prevent it freezing over
- should not be accessible to cats
- bird baths can be bought that are raised off the ground allowing birds to bathe and clean their feathers
- dish or pot of water out of the way is also effective
- birds bathe in shallow water
- most wildlife such as amphibians newts and frogs like shallower water
- a water dish will also be used as a source of water for hedgehogs
- placing a few rocks within the saucer of water provides a dry space for insects, such as dragonflies, to land and get a drink
- if the water goes green then this should be changed. Changing the water regularly stops this from happening and prevents disease building up within the water
- moving the water out of direct sunlight will also help
- moist ground is also liked by butterflies as it provides their mineral salt intake

Water Feature or Pond

- a pond diversifies the garden ecosystem, if not a small water feature will also attract different creatures
- fish can be kept and frogs will make a home here
- the water will also encourage dragonflies
- waterlilies and broad leaf pond weed are effective plants for this habitat
- easiest way of adding wildlife value to a garden is to install a pond however big or small
- digging a pond the most effective
- dish or pot of water out of the way is also effective
- fish usually eat anything that moves within a pond so not effective for a pond for wildlife and water plants should grow naturally
- birds bathe in shallow water
- should have a sloping side so creatures can get in or out
- most wildlife such as amphibians newts and frogs like shallower water
- from 1950 half of the ponds in the UK have gone
- Since 1966 50% of Great Crested Newts have gone
- Since 1970 10% of dragonfly species have become extinct
- The common frog has decreased by 90% over the last 30 years but has been much helped by the increase in garden ponds
- was at one point 350,000 ponds in England and Wales, however most were lost in the twentieth century. This was due to neglect which allowed them to silt up or because the land was wanted for other purposes such as farming or building, leading to many of the ponds being filled up
- to prevent freezing of the pond during winter place a ball in the water overnight and remove in the morning
- whenever removing material from a pond leave to rest on the ground beside the pond for a few days to let any wildlife move on
- stones, logs and tall plants and long grasses can be placed around the pond to provide extra habitats for wildlife and to provide shelter
- to help manage and access the pond one side should be more formal e.g. with paving, lawn or gravel
- planting around the pond helps shelter amphibians from birds
- having a pond that is at least 45 - 60cm in depth will stop the pond from completely  freezing over
- a garden pond should be put in a sunny spot with no overhanging trees as the leaves will spoil the water, the roots of the trees may be damaged when digging the pond and the branches will obstruct the light
- still water easily becomes stagnant because of the lack of oxygen, planting can help to overcome this e.g. oxygenators

Planting in Ponds

- wetland habitats combine both open water and wetground meaning different plants are adapted to different sites within a pond

- Marginal or emergant plants have roots / stems that grow in shallow water, whilst their shoots, leaves and flowers are above the surface

- Oxygenators live beneath the surface and put oxygen into the water 

- Waterlilies and deep water aquatic plants have roots that are submerged with leaves on the surface and flowers above 

- Free floating plants have leaves and stems which float on the waters surface, with the roots submerged and the flowers above the surface. The floating leaves shelter the water fro the sun minimising algae growth 

- Bog plants grow in wet / waterlogged soil. Some marginal plants can also be grown as bog plants

- when planting the size of the pond must be considered as some plants can grow large and take over the pond so slower and smaller growing plants are more suitable for smaller ponds
- Canadian pondweed spreads quickly
- aquatic plants can grow quickly and overgrown oxygenators can should be removed to avoid them taking over
- anything that is taken out of the pond should be left on the ground near the pond to let any wildlife escape
- marginal plants can be thinned in late spring to summer
- bog plants and some marginals can be cut back in autumn
- pond water can turn green, red or orange from a build up of algae, if the pond was filled with tap water it can be due to this. Using natural rain water does not have any nutrients for the algae to feed on
- barley straw can be bought to reduce algae by encouraging types of bacteria to eat the algae
- new ponds are more susceptible to algae, however within a few years the pond will be more mature and contain wildlife that will keep it at bay such as waterfleas.
- blanket weed can form on the pond surface this can be scooped out  

Container Ponds - Submerged or Freestanding 

- for a more substantial pond use a large container such as a half barrel or anything that will withstand being outside and frosts
- preferably it should be watertight but if using a pot this should be covered using pond liner
- the container should be placed within the garden when empty, having the sides level with the ground allows more animals to use the pond
- this can be done by sinking the container into the ground by digging a hole
- it should get a good amount of sun but not be in sunlight all day
- placing rocks, bricks, cobbles or logs around the inside and outside edges allows a natural escape route for animals to get in and out of the water e.g. hedgehogs
- seal any drainage holes with silicon or pond liner
- fill the pond with water, preferably rainwater as tap water has chemicals which may not be good for the pond
- water boatmen, pond skaters and diving beetles, water snails
- dragonflies, mosquitos an dmayflies lay eggs in water plants
- frogs and newts are encouraged to the damp areas around and within the pond
- within yards, roof gardens and balconies raised/ freestanding ponds are the only way a pond can be added. These are accessible to birds and flying insects however amphibians and small mammals will not be able to get to them

Large Pond

- most garden ponds use flexible pond liner
- cheap black polythene breaks down quicker
- butyl rubber is more expensive but lasts for over 10 years
- liners used for all shaped ponds
- plastic or fibreglass preformed pond liners are available in different sizes
- for these a hole should be dug the same size as the liner, rocks should be removed to prevent damage, or if the soil is stony sand can be added to cushion the liner as it will become heavy when full. Many have shelves within, adding large stones to create  slope will allow a path out of the water for animals
- small ponds are best being curved in shape to look natural
- for a more formal pond a geometric shape may be more suitable
- one part should be at least 45 cm deep, however this may not be possible for a very small pond
- gentle slope to allow animals to get in and out
- shelves can be dug within the pond to provide an area for marginal and aquatic plants
- once dug large stones must be taken from the soil to avoid tearing the liner and the soil should be firmed
- the pond edges must be level
- line the hole with sand as this will
- the lining should be the same size as the pond and include twice the depth of the pond
- buy more liner than is needed
- put the liner over the sand
- weigh down with rocks around the edges of the pond
- if using polythene a layer of soil can be put on top of it to prevent UV rays from damaging the lining
- rainwater is best however tap water can be used
- to stop the soil being disturbed allow the water to trickle into the pond
- the weight of the water will hold the liner in place
- the edges can be covered with cobbles, paving, turf or soil
- a slope can also be built within the pond using some of these materials to allow animals to get in and out of the pond
- planting in and around the pond will provide shelter for visiting animals

Rock Pile 

- amphibians hibernate in cool, dark and damp areas
- safe from predators
- like to be a little underground
- often live in amongst rocks near ponds where there are lots of cavities for them to hide
- this can be created by digging a round hole near to your pond or by its side approx 30 - 45 cm down with a flat bottom
- does not have to be near a pond if you do not have one
- logs or large rocks should then be put within this allowing gaps to form between them giving space for the frogs to hide amongst
- the rocks and logs will be stable enough not to crush any wildlife
- once it is at ground level this can also be built up above to create a mound
- to make a rock stack use rough hewn, flattened pieces of stone and stack them in alternative directions or in a design of your choice
- mimics the habitat of a drystone wall without the need for experience
- recesses give cover and hibernation for small creatures, reptiles and amphibians
- placing under a hedge or shrub will make it more shady and cool for animals

Composting

- compost garden waste
- speeds up natural recycling of nutrients by using native decomposer organisms (saprophytes) e.g. fungi, soil and bacteria
- turns waste material from the kitchen and garden into compost for the garden
- provides healthy soil for living things
- excellent mulch
- free and easy to produce
- reduces 'fuel miles'
- shelters creatures both small and large (e.g. slow worms and grass snakes) that like the heat released from the decaying compost
- provides food for woodlice and worms
- ready made compost bins made from sustainable timber are available, look for FSC logo
- use a combination of green (nitrogen rich) and brown (carbon rich) material in alternating layers
- green e.g. grass , weeds and vegetable peelings
- brown e.g. sticks, cardboard , dried grass, wood chippings and shredded paper
- finely shredded material rots quicker and allows the heap to get up to temperature quicker and therefore killing weed seeds
- meat, cooked food (bread, leftovers etc) , diary products or pet waste should not be added to the heap as this will attract rats
- the heap should be kept moist by watering it in dry weather but do not over water it
- a cover on top of the heap will keep the heat and moisture in but stops it getting to wet e.g. a piece of wood
- turning the heap can help decomposition but may disrupt or hurt any animals within the heap
- after a year the compost can be used within the garden
- 60% of household waste is organic so can be recycled
- composting reduces the amount that goes to landfill
- leaf litter creates leaf mould and can be used in composting
- cheap and easy
- hedgehogs and amphibians may hibernate within the compost heap

Don't be too tidy

- not all the garden has to be neat
- leaf and twig piles provide food and shelter for insects and animals
- leave perennials uncut as the hollow stems can shelter hibernating insects
- piles of stones useful for hibernating amphibians
- hide them away in a corner of the garden or behind the shed
- dead material naturally builds up on soil in winter beneath trees and plants within the garden like it does in woodlands
- beetles like decaying matter on the soil
- leaf litter is used by hedgehogs and amphibians as a source of material for winter hibernation as well as food
- by putting old branches and leaves in a corner of the garden hedgehogs may use it as a place to sleep or hibernate
- the leaves are broken down by microbes, fungi and scavengers to create leaf mould
- by leaving leaf mould over the soil it keeps moisture within the soil reducing the need to water
- leaf litter provides food and shelter for slugs, snails, woodlice and beetle grubs. These animals then convert the matter into nutrients for the plants
- these animals are also eaten by spiders, centipedes and these by blackbirds etc
- don't dead head plants at the end of summer, instead leave them during the winter
- if they fall over prop them up using stakes in a similar way to how flowers are tied up
- insects will hibernate in the stems
- birds will use the seeds as food during the winter

https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/leave-seedheads-standing/

Sustainable gardening

- actions have an impact on wildlife outside our own gardens
- make your own compost which reduces 'fuel miles' through a composter or compost heap
- synthetic pesticides are toxic to many organisms not just the ones they are used on, using non toxic , non chemical alternatives are better
- pesticides are energy intensive to produce so should be used sparingly,
- peat extraction destroys habitats so avoid peat based composts and use alternative composts
- use sustainably sourced wood for patio furniture, such as FSC accredited
- recycle reclaimed materials to build garden elements e.g. raised beds can be made from old pallets or scaffolding planks

Organic Gardening 

- pesticides often kill beneficial insects and animals as well as their intended target
- attracting other types of animals can reduce the number of pests
- greenfly are eaten by ladybirds
- hedgehogs and frogs eat slugs
- reducing the amount of bare soil in your garden reduces the amount of space for weeds to grow
- pesticides should not be used for weed control
- using mulch such as compost or bark chippings can be used on the ground to prevent weeds coming through
- aphids can be crushed when first seen then mild household detergent can be sprayed on the area
- hoverflies, lacewings and ladybirds all naturally eat aphids
- buried beer traps get rid of slugs and snails by luring them into the the part buried trap which they can't get out of
- frogs and toads eat slugs and snails
- putting salty water onto slugs and snails kills them off
- picking off slugs and snails while wearing gloves and disposing of them away from your garden
- snails are eaten by thrushes, blackbirds, hedgehogs and toads
- do not water plants at night as slugs and snails are most active
- early morning watering is much better
- using sharp materials around a plant can deter slugs and snails such as crushed egg shells, pine needles and coffee
- companion planting can help to put off pests and encourage insects that will eat problematic pests
- attracting beneficial predators can help control pests
- wasps eat caterpillars
- spiders eat insects particularly flying ones that get caught in their webs
- slow worms eat slugs, earthworms and insects
- robins eat grubs and insects
- ladybirds eat aphids
- lacewings eat aphids
- hoverfly larvae eat aphids
- ground beetles eat slugs
- insecticides kill off insects that hedgehogs eat and by eating them a build up of poison can build up within the hedgehog proving fatal


http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/sites/wt-main.live.drupal.precedenthost.co.uk/files/files/Snail-SlugControl.pdf
http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/sites/wt-main.live.drupal.precedenthost.co.uk/files/files/OrganicGardening.pdf

Garden Wildlife by Christine and Michael Lavelle

Install a water - butt 

- save water using water - butts and barrels, this natural water is also preferred by pond life
- 'average hosepipe uses 170 litres of water every 10 minutes, more than the average person uses in a day for drinking, bathing and flushing the loo'
- water is  becoming a precious resource due to climate change
- a standard water butt can hold over 200 litres
- the butt should be placed next to a drainpipe, where water runs off the roof, shed or garage
- by cutting  a hole into the top of the waterbutt all the water will flow directly inside which might lead to it overflowing when full
- a diverter kit diverts water from the pipe into a connecting pipe to fill the butt, then when full the rest goes down the drain
- follow the instructions on the diverter kit for installation
- having a waterbutt with a stand will make it easier to use the tap on the butt for filling watering cans

Rock Garden

- rock gardens mimic steep cliff faces and rocky areas where specialised plants live in poor thin soil
- rock gardens and gravel beds are low maintenance and need little watering
- mason bees attracted to these areas
- alpines, conifers, trailing plants, lichen, moss and algae can all form in rocky areas
- weathering in old walls provides gaps and cracks which are more sheltered allowing plants to grow
- house walls, pavement, roofs etc are all examples of 'rock gardens' and are able to support ferns, grasses flowering plants and mosses
- by painting an exposed wall in flour, milk and liquid manure colonisation of plants is speeded up
- rock gardens can be both formal and drystone walls
- drilling holes into a normal wall or stones can create spaces for insects of plants to grow
- ivy is self clinging so will grow up both formal and drystone walls
- ferns and trailing plants can be planted in the gaps
- can be used as a feature or to mark a boundary

Small Features

- using scrap material from around the garden various small homes can be created for different animals, helping them survive the winter

Block of wood 

- by drilling holes into found materials such as wood, brick, logs, walls etc these will provide homes for solitary bees, spiders, insects
- these can be attached to fence posts or walls or left on the ground for insects

Bamboo Bee and Insect Case 

- using a clean tin or paint can, fill it with bamboo sticks that are the same length as the container that is being used
- cut the bamboo with secateurs so that they are the right length
- use bamboo canes between 5 - 10mm
- pack them into the can or tin
- hang in a sunny place on a tree or fence at a different heights
- attracts solitary bees, insects spiders and insects

Flowerpot Bee Chamber

- will be used by queen bumble bees as a place to hibernate during the winter
- used after hibernation for nesting in spring and summer
- by making the pot in late winter it will be available for the bees during and when they come out of hibernation
- they hibernate in chambers dug in loose soil
- dig a hole a third the size of the pot
- the small earthenware flowerpot should be filled with loose earth and buried so the bottom hole shows, this can be done by placing the pot on its side
- an offcut of hose can be put into the hole if you want to bury the whole pot ( 5 - 6 cm long piece that is 25 - 30 mm wide) , a hole will need to be drilled into the pot for the pipe
- create other holes for water to drain away
- put a tile etc on top to cover the drainage hole on the top
- materials such as grass , straw or leaves can be added within as bedding for the bees
- queen bees look for somewhere to hibernate in late summer
- they dig a shallow chamber where they hide until spring
- this can be mimicked by the flowerpot bee chamber
- by the end of April half bury the pot
- use a clay flowerpot
- needs to be placed in a dry, well drained, sheltered place e.g. a flowerbed or hedge
- the drainage hole should face outwards

Frog Pot 

- suitable for toads, frogs and newts
- using an earthenware flowerpot place it in a shady area e.g. under a hedge
- place it on its side on the ground
- digging a small whole means the pot can be part submerged
- the pot can be filled with leaves
- frogs hunt at night and during the day shelter in cool dark places
- they eat insects, slugs and invertebrates

Gaps under the fence 

- create a small gaps under wooden fences to allow frogs and hedgehogs to move between gardens
- hedgehogs walk a mile or more in a night looking for food or a mate
- connects gardens creating a larger area for hedgehogs to roam safely

Bug Hotel 

- can be created using found materials around the garden
- can shelter hedgehogs, toads, bees and insects
- autumn provides plenty of natural materials such as straw, stems etc
- needs to be constructed on flat ground
- the hotel needs to have a strong structure
- no higher than 1 metre
- layering wooden pallets or boards up provides a structure
- bricks can make a sturdy base and by leaving gaps between them allows animals to get underneath
- palettes can be stacked on top of one another
- wooden boards can be layered to create spaces using wooden blocks or bricks inbetween at either end of the boards
- fill the gaps and spaces within the structure using bark, loose bark, holes, small tubes, bamboo, reeds, drilled logs, sticks, straws, leaves
- add a roof to keep the stack dry using old roof tiles, wooden planks covered in roofing felt
- creating a green roof and filling it with sedum, succulents and alpines could be another option
- animals naturally share space, a bug hotel provides shelter for many animals creating a mini ecosystem
- acts as winter hibernation


https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/build-a-bug-hotel/

Stumpery for insects

- similar to a log pile
- attracts insects such as beetles, bees and woodlice and allows, fungi and lichen to grow
- logs are half buried in the soil in an upright position
-  needs some shade to keep the logs moist
- different heights and thicknesses makes the area more visually appealing
- the logs should be buried at least 50cm below ground, a hole for all the logs can be dug first then it can be backfilled when the logs have been arranged
- firming the soil with your feet will make them more sturdy
- ferns should be planted around the logs

http://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/diy/how-to-make-a-stumpery-for-insects/
https://eden.uktv.co.uk/nature/green/article/attract-wildlife-to-your-garden/
https://www.rhs.org.uk/science/conservation-biodiversity/wildlife/encourage-wildlife-to-your-garden
https://www.thompson-morgan.com/encouraging-wildlife-in-my-garden
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/bird-and-wildlife-guides/gardening-for-wildlife/creating-a-wildlife-friendly-garden
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/waterwise-gardening-install-a-water-butt-or-two/
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/createaminipond/
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/startcomposting/
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/bringyourgardentolifewithdeadwood2/
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/createnaturehighwaysandbyways/
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/openabirdcafe/
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/makeafrogandtoadabode/
http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/sites/wt-main.live.drupal.precedenthost.co.uk/files/files/HedgesforWildlife.pdf
http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/sites/wt-main.live.drupal.precedenthost.co.uk/files/files/Wildlife%20Gardening/CreatureFeatures.pdf