Making Things for the Garden
Building a Bat Box
Info
- Pipistrelles are our smllest bat, weighing the same as ten paperclips and are able to fit within a matchbox.
- Pipistrelles are common in villages and towns
- bats roost in old hollow trees
- roof spaces of old buildings and barns
- eat insects
- reduction in woodland means fewer sites to roost in
- bat boxes usually used for summer and autumn roosting
- Bats in the UK are protected by law so they cannot be disturbed, only a licensed bat handler is allowed to look at them
- Can buy readymade boxes
Materials needed:
- Roughly Sawn, Untreated Wood (adapt measurements)
- Ladder
- Drill
- Screws
- Saw
- Nails
- Hammer
Key points
- made from untreated wood that is roughly sawn (FSC logo) - if the wood is too smooth use the saw to make marks in the wood making it rougher allowing the bats to grip onto it
- the wood should have no preservative chemicals as bats are sensitive to smell and these may be harmful to them
- made from rough sawn wood not smooth planed wood
- to avoid draughts joints must be tight
- a narrow slit must be at the back of the box with a rough piece of wood below it for the bats to climb up
- ideal bat boxes have multiple internal compartments, with one as large as possible to make them feel safe and to regulate air temperature
- wood must be thick to keep the bats insulated within, preferably 1.5cm or more
Instructions
- follow diagram by marking the dimensions on the piece of wood with a pencil, then cut out each section
- nail the pieces together following the diagram
- to build the box a piece of 15cm by 1.1m long piece of timber is needed
- write the name of each piece on each section to aid construction
Other info
- can be put up a mature tree at least three metres from the ground or under the eaves of the house using screws
- to fix to a tree use adjustable ties to avoid damaging the tree
- should be positioned somewhere that has direct sunlight for some of the day
- cover from trees nearby would be ideal
- in spring they prefer south and east facing boxes with morning sun
- in autumn north facing are used more
- putting up multiple boxes in different directions increases the choice the bats will have over where to roost
- if you don't see any bats, look for black droppings beneath the entrance to the bat box
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/buildabatbox/
Bird Box
- put up in early spring for the nesting season in April
- birds nest or roost in hollow trees and holes in trees
- these are now cut down and taken away so their natural roosting habitats are not available
- bird boxes mimic holes in dead standing wood
- estimated 2 million fledglings are reared in nest boxes each year
- there are two types of bird box, an open fronted robin box and a hole fronted tit box with varying sized entrance holes to let different types of birds in
- readymade boxes are available
Materials
- Plank of timber
- pencil
- tape measure
- saw
- screws
- 20 mm nails
- waterproof rubber e.g. bike tyre, roofing felt etc
- ladder
- drill
- drill bit capable of creating 4.5cm round holes
Key points
- suitable places for a bird box are under the eaves of the house or on a mature tree
- should be at least three metres from the ground, facing between north and east to stop it getting to warm or wet
- should be out of direct sunlight and not in a busy area e.g. above a door or near a busy pathway
- the heat can be dangerous to eggs and chicks
- can be tilted downwards to avoid the box getting rained in too heavily
- should be sheltered from wind and hot sun
- avoid positioning in a south facing spot
- wood needs to be thick to insulate from the cold and heat
- exterior quality plywood makes a light ox , whereas hardwoods e.g. oak will be more durable
- FSC wood that is not pressure treated as chemicals are harmful to the birds
- open fronted boxes are better placed within climbers and shrubs for cover
- having a clear flight path to the box will help allow access to the birdbox
- for robins boxes should be put in a secluded place, perhaps in a climber, as they are very territorial and are likely to fight other robins in closely neighboring boxes
- boxes should be cleaned out in late summer or early autumn
- do not disturb the box during nesting season as this will disturb the birds as they will leave the nest if they think they are in danger
Instructions
- measure out pieces, then cut them out with a saw
- drill holes in the top and bottom for drainage
- for a hole fronted tit box use the drill bit to create the hole or use a jigsaw to cut a square hole at the top of the front panel
- holes: blue tit 3cm, Great tits 3.5cm, Sparrows 5cm,Robins, Pied Wagtails, Spotted Flycatchers 15cm
- to make an open fronted bird box cut 75mm off the front panel
- open fronted used by robins.wagtails and flycatchers
- nail sides, back and front so they go around the base leaving the roof off
- screw the roof on so that it can be accessed at a later time to clean it out
- make a hinge with a waterproof strip of roofing felt or membrane, nail the hinge to the backplate first then pull over the join and nail to the roof, allowing it to act as a waterproof lid
- drill holes at the top and bottom of the back plate so that it can be screwed in the chosen location
- can be put up a mature tree at least three metres from the ground or under the eaves of the house using screws
- to fix to a tree use adjustable ties to avoid damaging the tree and to allow for growth
Other info
- if the box is in use birds will take twigs etc into it to make their nest
- incubation of the eggs usually is a quite time with little activity
- when the eggs are hatched the chicks will be heard asking to be fed
- the birds however should not be disturbed
- the box can be cleaned once a year, 2 - 3 weeks after the birds have fledged (Oct - Nov)
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/createacosystarlinghome/
Simple Hedgehog Home
- using a wooden box, plastic storage box or an upturned milkcrate- cut a 14cm square in one end of the box, making sure there are no rough edges
- create ventilation holes in one side of the box by drilling or making holes
- place in a quiet place, if possible next to a wall or fence
- soil, leaves and straw can be placed within the box to cover the floor and make it more inviting for the hedgehogs
- hedgehogs need a dry place to sleep during the day and during hibernation
- put the hedgehog home in the undergrowth
- leaves and soil can also be put over the top of it
- the box should not face north or north east to avoid draughts
- eat slugs and invertebrates
- burrows usually under leaf or twig piles a hedgehog home can mimic this if leaves and soil are place over the top
Permanent Hedgehog Home
- fill with straw, dead leaves, sawdust or soil to make it more natural as hedgehogs have soft feet- ventilation tube needs to point downwards to avoid the box becoming flooded
- inside the air pipe should be covered with mesh or gauze
- the box should be placed in a quiet area and can be left as it is
- placing bedding material outside means that hedgehogs can take it inside
- it can also be covered in plastic sheeting then covered with soil, leave or logs to make it more natural looking
- wood used should not be treated or creosoted
- the entrance should be kept clear
- Cut all pieces according to the diagram using 2cm FSC timber, exterior plywood
- Nail all the sides together
- Screw the top on, allowing access to the box in the future for cleaning etc
- drill a hole the same width as the ventilation pipe so it can be pushed into the box
- the ventilation pipe should be made from a short length of drainpipe
- the ventilation pipe should be left clear if the hedgehog home is covered in soil etc
- the box should also be raised up on feet to prevent the base becoming damp and rotting
http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/sites/wt-main.live.drupal.precedenthost.co.uk/files/files/Wildlife%20Gardening/FurryFurniture.pdf
WILD ABOUT GARDENS HEDGEHOG LEAFLET
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/giveahogahome/
BRITISH HEDGEHOG PRESERVATION SOCIETY LEAFLET
Solitary Bee Home
- solitary bees don't live in hives- after mating the female bees nest in the holes during spring
- the females put nectar and pollen inside for the emerging larvae to eat
- lay eggs in tunnels in dead wood and soil
- also used by ladybirds and lacewings
- leaf cutter bees will take in its of leaves and seal the passages up
- using 1.5 cm thick untreated FSC timber cut out the different sections using a saw
- nail all the pieces together
- the bamboo canes should be between 7 -9 mm thick
- branches with drilled holes can also be used
- having different sized 'tubes' will allow a variety of species of bees
- angling the holes upwards means the rain is less likely to get in
- wedge all the materials in so nothing can move
- do not glue the canes within the box as the fumes are toxic
- screw to a wall or fence post , preferably near flowers
- place near vegitation as this will provide more food for the bees and increase the likelihood of them being used
- angle the box slightly downwards to prevent lots of rain getting in
- when the holes become blocked with mud or leaves this means that female bees have laid eggs
- the grubs will hatch the following year
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/buildabeebandb/
Swift Box
- measure all the pieces out on to the wood- cut to size using a saw
- nail or screw all the pieces together with the front screwed on allowing for access to clean the box
- pieces must fit tightly together to avoid draughts
- using a jigsaw or saw cut out the entrance hole
- attach the box to the wall of your house underneath the eaves
- should be at least 5m above ground
- entrance should be clear to allow birds to easily get in and out
- swifts swoop into their nests so bear this in mind when clearing the area around the box
- screw through the lips on the backpiece, firmly into the brick of the building
- do not place above doors, windows etc
- swifts move in colonies so are likely to nest close together, placing multiple boxes up allows for more of them to make a home
- the box should not be in direct sunlight, between north and east
https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/get-involved/activities/give-nature-a-home-in-your-garden/garden-activities/createahighhomeforswifts/
http://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/diy/how-to-make-a-nest-box-for-swifts/
http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/sites/wt-main.live.drupal.precedenthost.co.uk/files/files/Wildlife%20Gardening/BasicallyBoxes-part1.pdf
http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/sites/wt-main.live.drupal.precedenthost.co.uk/files/files/Wildlife%20Gardening/BasicallyBoxes-part2.pdf
Swallow and House Martins
- eat lots of insects
- it is difficult for house martins to nest in towns and cities because the buildings have very smooth sides making it hard for them to fix nests
- also the vibrations within these places can cause their nests to fall potentially killing the occupants
- they move in colonies and often nest together so providing multiple nests is beneficial
- premade house martin boxes which are made from a wood and cement mix can be bought
- attach the box to the wall of your house underneath the eaves- should be at least 3 - 6m above ground
- entrance should be clear to allow birds to easily get in and out
- swifts swoop into their nests so bear this in mind when clearing the area around the box
- the box should not be in direct sunlight, between north and east
- if droppings become a problem then a wooden shelf can be added below the house to catch falling droppings
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